All of these engines had the same compression ratio whether they came with the original heads with the open chambers or the newer ones with the heart-shaped chambers, so they would seem to be interchangeable, but the computer calibration that was used for the old-style heads with the open chambers will not work with the newer heads with the fast-burn chambers. Many of the heads that were produced for the 4. Some of the later heads have cracks around the oil drainback holes and quite a few are cracked in the chambers, so they should all be carefully inspected before being rebuilt.
The threaded plugs on the top tend to leak, too, so they should be removed and reinstalled with sealer on the threads. Ford says they should be torqued to 80 ft. Advertisement Rebuilders should also be aware that there are new aftermarket heads available from several different sources. All of these engines had four studded mains that were used to hold the windage tray in place under the crank.
Advertisement The two steel balls in the lifter valley that are used to plug the oil galleries must be removed in order to clean the block properly. They are almost impossible to remove from the top, but they can be driven out from the bottom by coming up through the oil holes in the mains. The early crank gear has caused problems for many rebuilders.
The crank gear was timed to the crankshaft by the small tab on the back of the gear that fit into the shallow notch that was machined in the step at the back of the snout. There is nothing to hold the gear in place against this step until the damper is installed, so it wants to slide forward and jump out of time during assembly, test and installation. Advertisement The rear seal on the 4. Rebuilders should definitely install a sleeve over the factory seal surface, but there are better alternatives in the aftermarket; Micro Sleeve and Classic both offer sleeves for the 4.
The pushrods and rockers on the 4. Rebuilders should expect to rebuild or replace most of the rockers. Or, if you prefer to have someone do them for you, rebuilt rockers are available from Delta Camshaft at Advertisement You may want to consider flame-hardening the tips, too. He found that the wear on the tips was loading the valves so hard to one side that they were wearing out the guides and causing other problems in the process.
Plan on buying a lot of new pushrods, too. Most of them are scuffed and worn on the tip due to the lack of oil in the socket. Advertisement More Most Read Articles….
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Jan 12, Jan 05, Dec 29, Dec 22, You'll find Stallion Products are widely considered the most heavy duty on the market! This is a high-quality tool and you will be pleased with your purchase. This tool is needed to prevent your rear seal from leaking. Don't try to save a few bucks at the expense of your engine - know that you're getting quality from Stallion Products. Even the tool's ball bearings are made in the USA!
Ships today! Check items to add to the cart or select all. Warning: This product can expose you to chemicals including lead, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. The cause of this leak may be uneven mating surfaces on the rear main bearing cap. The repair requires the oil pan to be removed and thoroughly cleaned of all sealer. The rear main bearing cap must also be removed and cleaned.
After all parts are completely clean, they must also be wiped down with denatured alcohol to remove any remaining residue. To correctly install the rear main bearing cap: 1. Apply small amounts of Loctite sealer, or equivalent, to the cap mating surfaces in the block.
Make sure the bearing insert is in place. Align the rear main cap so the rear main seal bore is concentric and torque the new mounting bolts to ft. After reattaching the oil pump and windage tray, follow the steps listed below:. Fill the cavities between the block and rear main cap for the wedge seal with Loctite
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