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During installation, I came across some minor issues and would like to list it here. I took out the connector from the existing actuator, which made splicing easier and I could test the polarity and connect the new actuator wires easily. Be careful about the routing while joining the actuator cable to the wiring harness. The actuator has to be inside and the wires should be coming out from the right hole, otherwise you will have to redo it.
I ended up redoing it. After the new actuator were installed, I plugged the connector back. Connected the blue form actuator to red on the harness and green from actuator to red with black lines on the harness. I enlarged the bottom hole on the bracket beforehand so that it can be bolted to the bolt holding the guide rail for the window glass, as shown in gary's picture.
However, when I unbolted the rail, it came loose from the clip at top and I had some trouble to get it back in the slot which is up somewhere and one can not see it properly.
I suggest to somehow support it while you have unbolted it and trying to slip the bracket between the guide rail and the body. I mounted the actuator with only one screw top hole of the actuator to 2nd slot on the bracket from top and taped it to the bracket at an angle so that it is in line with the vertical rod.
I found another hole to which the wiring harness was attached with a pin and which I had removed in order to get more slack in the harness. This hole perfectly matched with the bracket top hole and I used the folded sheet quick nut from the hardware kit to put a screw at this spot too. While bolting the actuator rod to the vertical rod, I used my wife's nail polish on the screws so that they done become loose due to vibrations.
I got pictures of the installations and can send it to any one interested or can post it somewhere. Thanks to this forum again. Thank you for posting this! I have a SEL and both of the front door locks had completely quit working. I followed the instructions and completed both sides in about 2 hours.
I need to do this on the driver rear door as well. Does anyone have any pictures or descriptions on how to do this? I am really glad everything has been working well for every one.
I am also glad every one adds to this post. I will also add this will work on most Other Fords with electric door locks. I notice Ford Exploers have this issue as well.. NOW wires and mounting will differ.. The front door is clearly an actuator problem So I'm gonna follow Gary's now well-trodden path for that one.
The rear door, tho, is a little different. Some times you can play with the handle on the outside of the car while reaching inside and pulling up on the lock, and it will pop up. Then mysteriously a few days later it will just start working normally, with no intervention. Any ideas on this sliding door lock issue? Not being as brave as you guys It took me more time than you Just for info Don't know if its any better tho I took the chance to clean up the contacts in the driver's window switches Then filled all the little contacts with electrical silicone paste.
My sliding door actuator on the passenger side was acting the same way. Assumed it was the actuator going bad, but once I got in there saw the voltage was not consistent. I think the actuator was good to replace while in there, but there were other issues. First the power gets to the actuator via the pad and plunger connection. It may look clean, but can easily be the culprit. It really needs some serious rubbing to get a good connection.
Also I used electrical contact cleaner on the electrical connector on the back of the plunger and the connection to the actuator, the plunger connection did look like it needed it.
Those steps have fixed my issue. If you think about it the intermittent working makes sense as the connection is provided by the pad and plunger setup which connects each time you close the door. As far as the rear doors I would look into the contacts like above posted.. Im sure the uni-actuators would work. But unless you see there is no contact power issues then I would not attempt just yet.
The only two I have done on my van are the front ones. I had an issue but only miner on one of the slide doors and that was the little metal door contacts. A pencil eraser did the trick as far as cleaning them..
I'll try cleaning the connections. I have a problem, tho - i can't get the driver's side sliding door to open for over a week now. I cannot unlock the door with the automatic locks or even pull up the lock manually it feels like it's being held in the lock position, maybe a "safety feature"? Any suggestions on how to get the darn thing open? Once I get it open, what should I do to release the lock?
I got into the sliding door and poked around until I could get the door to open. Then I cleaned the electrical contacts on the door jam as suggested, and caused some kind of electrical problem. Any ideas? I fear there is a tow truck in my future tomorrow morning. I am convinced that the anti-theft systems are far more a nuisance for owners than for thieves.
FWIW - just to update my situation It was the battery. Apparently I drained it to around V I guess when I sprayed the door-jamb contacts with the contact cleaner it must have arc'ed or something?
Once the friendly guy from AAA convinced me to try a jump instead of a tow, we're back in business. Now back to the damn sliding door lock issue! When the lock is up, the mechanism is down at the bottom of the vertical part of the upside-down L and when you pull the handle there is therefore resistance and the door opens.
That's mega-confusing, but if you've been in there you'll know what I'm talking about. Anyway, what's happening is that when the lock is down, and the mechanism is at the top of the upside-down L, it works fine when it's tucked right into corner.
However sometimes it's actually halfway across the horizontal portion - so it's locked but you can't pull the lock up to unlock it and neither can the actuator. Seems to me it should never be in this position and so I'm trying to figure out what causes it to get stuck in this in-between state. Unless somebody has the magic answer, my next steps is to begin dismantling the lock mechanism to see if I can figure out why it's getting into this position in the first place.
That isn't the child proof lock is it? I had the same thought - but I don't think so. It seems to happen whether the child-proof lock is engaged or not. Also, on the other functional door the lock never gets stuck in the locked position, even when the child-proof switch is engaged.
It looks like the child-proof function simply makes the inside handle non-functional, but you can still pull up on the lock. Having said that, tho, I haven't been able to reliably re-create the issue ie every time I do x then y then z it happens , so I can't rule anything out at this point. The child proofer removes control to the door handle. Nothing electronic there..
Check your linkages rods etc. But it kinda sounds like the Actuator is diein and only moviing it to the half way point. If these things are solenoids, they are not going to get any better. I've not torn into one of these yet, but if Tsauce is right about it being your actuator, it would explain your symptoms. Over time, solenoids can swell as they croak, causing your lock knobs and connected parts to act stuck and this would also explain if they only move partially.
Eventually, they probably will croak completely burning up by trying to move an immovable object in it when turning it on. What was your final cost.? If you don't mind me asking.. Solenoid isn't the problem on the sliding door, IMO. I was in mine today for the same reason, but had a different cause. However, there is a spring on the backside of the mechanism that should pull that pin over into the corner.
Remove the wire harness to the actuator before pulling too far. Almost going on three years with no issues with the universal actuators. I keep this post alive with results of my door locks over the past few years.. Keep in mind this will work on most Fords and other electric powered door locks. It could work with vacuum type as well just a little more work would have to be done.
There have been some posts on this thread regarding the lock mechanism on the sliding doors so I'll add my 2 cents. Driver's side slider lock would not always unlock with actuator and would sometimes get stuck. As per other posters, I removed mechanism from door, cleaned and re-lubed. To pull plastic trim off of door remove two screws, one at door handle and the other at the aft bottom corner.
Unscrew the door lock knob and pull trim from door, held on by clips. The mechanism torx screws were also treated with a thread lock, use a good torx socket to remove they're stubborn. Reassembled and haven't had a problem with lock yet. Hey, I am new here, and I found the forum after fixing rear AC problem and now attacking the front passenger side door lock problem that has not worked for years.
The switch unlocks and locks other doors, just not it's own. Driver side door works fine, and it operates all switches except for the passenger door. It works manually. I opened the trim today, and tried to trace the problem. Have one to sell?
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